45 Jermyn St.

Redecorate the restaurant, but you can’t redecorate the clientele

14 November 2015 9:00 am

Forty-five Jermyn St lives in the left-hand buttock of Fortnum & Mason (F&M), a shop whose acronym is slightly too…


The Old Vic’s Pit Bar has fallen to the hipsters – Penny reviewed

29 October 2015 9:00 am

Penny is an all-day café in the former Pit Bar in the basement of the Old Vic, a famous and…


The young entrepreneurs making the best of Spain’s crisis

17 October 2015 9:00 am

Lara Prendergast finds delicacies amid the dilapidation in Andalucía


I went to Pedro’s Tex Mex Cantina to claim my racist sombrero

17 October 2015 9:00 am

Pedro’s Tex-Mex Cantina is a fantastical shack near a ring road in Norwich. It was recently asked to stop handing…

Smith & Wollensky doesn’t even serve the best steaks in Covent Garden

3 October 2015 8:00 am

Smith & Wollensky is a restaurant from The Shining: a terrifying American steak joint by the Thames, four months old,…

La Baule: the view from the beach

Having a ball in La Baule

19 September 2015 8:00 am

The reaction of the chap on the door at Le Bidule told me that they weren’t used to seeing English…

Finally, a foodie restaurant that isn’t pretentious, overpriced or insulting to the intelligence

19 September 2015 8:00 am

I cannot review the Gay Hussar every time the Labour party behaves like a self-harming teenager (‘I don’t want to…

Mum’s serves 16 variants of mash, five variants of sausage and three individual types of gravy!

Where comics find their Edinburgh comfort food

5 September 2015 9:00 am

Mum’s, or to use its full title, Mum’s Great Comfort Food, is a restaurant in Edinburgh designed to soothe itinerant…


'Clean food' is a dangerous fad

22 August 2015 9:00 am

The ‘clean eating’ revolution is more likely to make you ill than healthy

Eat...just maybe not at Jamie's Italian (Photo: Getty)

Boastful, narcissistic, overpriced: welcome to Jamie’s Italian

22 August 2015 9:00 am

Jamie’s Italian is squeezed into the Devonshire Arms on Denman Street, Soho, borne on the duplicitous winds of TV shows…

Fresh tomato soup Gazpacho

The missing ingredient for a perfect gazpacho

15 August 2015 9:00 am

We were eating tapas and talking about Spain. Leaving caviar on one side, when jamón ibérico is at its best,…

Prue Leith’s diary: When did weddings stop being for parents?

8 August 2015 9:00 am

My Cambodian daughter and her husband have just got married again. Wedding One was a Buddhist affair in our drawing…

Oporto: a touch of North Africa and no hipsters

Tripe, pale tawny port and LSD: the delicious flavours of Oporto

8 August 2015 9:00 am

‘When he’s away, the thing he misses about Porto is the tripe.’ I was talking to Eduarda Sandeman, wife of…

I Shop Therefore I Am (Dan Kitwood/Getty)

A fake fishing village, and the nastiest thing I’ve eaten as a restaurant critic

8 August 2015 9:00 am

Selfridges is skilled at making things that are not hideous (women) look hideous (women dressed as Bungle from Rainbow or…

Colorful houses on the Burano, Venice

Venetian restaurants know I’m English from the back

25 July 2015 9:00 am

The Gatto Nero — or ‘Black Cat’ — is in Burano, a tiny island in the Venetian lagoon. It is…


Susan Hill’s French notebook: My struggle to avoid local cuisine

11 July 2015 9:00 am

An overnight stop on the Ile de Ré taken between the St Malo ferry and the Quercy, where we always…


The joy of an empty Gordon Ramsay restaurant

11 July 2015 9:00 am

The Maze Grill is on a sinister street in Chelsea, between a small Tesco — a boutique Tesco? — and…

First he brought limp salad, and now it’s drizzling

The pitfalls of picnics (and how to avoid them)

4 July 2015 9:00 am

Strange, isn’t it, that despite having such famously terrible weather, we Brits are so fond of a picnic. It’s something…

The Ivy has lost its sparkle

The new Ivy doesn’t have the old magic (if there ever was any)

27 June 2015 9:00 am

The Ivy is a Playmobil-style faux-medieval restaurant in a triangular building opposite The Mousetrap; of the two, The Ivy is…


A fantasy world with its own perfumed air: the Colony Grill Room

13 June 2015 9:00 am

The Beaumont Hotel is a bright white cake in the silent part of Mayfair, where the only sound is Patek…

Rhubarb at Sky Garden - High Resolution08

Fenchurch in the Sky Garden – like going for dinner in Total Recall

30 May 2015 9:00 am

Fenchurch is a restaurant that is scared of terrorists. It cowers at the top of 20 Fenchurch Street, a skyscraper…

Le Perche: every farmyard looks like a painting

Beauty, tragedy and black pudding: the delights of Normandy

16 May 2015 9:00 am

I am compiling a list of the best black puddings. It began in Spain when I encountered my first morcilla…

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There’s only one place to mourn another Labour loss

16 May 2015 9:00 am

Ed is a plank. He was always a plank — and now he is in Ibiza being a plank. Plankety–plankety-plank:…


The surprising power of garlic

9 May 2015 9:00 am

Were the ancients right about garlic as a great healer? Professor Edzard Ernst investigates

Just deserts

Could any cook help me overcome my terror of tapioca?

9 May 2015 9:00 am

There are those who claim that this column is idiosyncratic. They have seen nothing yet. I am about to mention…